twitter: rec.crafts.metalworking - 25 new messages in 10 topics

rec.crafts.metalworking
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Open ball bearing lubrication
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/0040ea1c80c070ee?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 8:31 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
greases than that, just not as commonly available.

I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
used in open locations.

I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel bearing
grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the best
product.

For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest to
visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different greases
and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).

Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.

I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
in any service manuals.

--
WB
.........

"Ignoramus23515" <ignoramus23515@NOSPAM.23515.invalid> wrote in message
news:W-WdnR_In5foO-PWnZ2dnUVZ_vWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>I am going through the VS countershaft assembly on the lathe and it
> has two open ball bearings. They were filled with dried grease, which
> I cleaned out.
>
> I want to know what grease to use in them. I filled one with lithium
> grease, but decided that it is still not too late to ask. I would say
> that this bearing is not very stressed out, sees at most 3-4,000 RPM,
> etc.
>
> If anyone has any grease recs, let me know.
>
> Thanks
>
> i

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 8:48 am
From: Ignoramus23515

On 2010-02-19, Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> If you're referring to white lithium grease, there are lots of better
> greases than that, just not as commonly available.
>
> I used to use white lithium fairly regularly for various mechanisms, but
> found that it always dried out over time, and seemed to attract dirt when
> used in open locations.
>
> I've seen lots of comments recommending and praising ordinary wheel bearing
> grease, which is probably better if it's not white lithium.
> Then again, some folks will claim that anything that costs less is the best
> product.
>
> For different types of machine applications, it would probably be wisest to
> visit a manufacurer's dealer/rep to get a guide for their different greases
> and lubricants (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Wolfs Head, etc).
>
> Distributors such as Fastenal, Applied Industrial Technologies, and other
> industrial parts vendors probably have guides for lubricants.
>
> I can't recall white lithium grease ever being recommended for lubrication
> in any service manuals.
>

WB, this lithium grease I had for a few years and kept it in an open
container, and it did not dry. Nevertheless, I will take your advice
and I will get another grease, probably something at Autozone. The
grease that was in the bearings, probably since the lathe was built,
has dried out.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: FS -- 275 amp Pipeline Welder, Continental 163 engine
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/dc43134cee7f371e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 8:43 am
From: Bruce L. Bergman

On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:19:06 -0600, "Pete C." <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net>
wrote:

>
>RoyJ wrote:
>>
>> So you think that there are different laws for card than for trucks? If
>> a car made a right turn from the far left lane, they would get a ticket.
>> If a truck does the same it's OK??? If you can't drive on the road,
>> don't drive on the road. I fully understand that it's real tough to put
>> a 53 foot (and maybe a bit more) semi into a curvy cul-du-sac
>> residential street like some idiot trucker tried to do on the side
>> street next to my house but idiots should get what they deserve.
>>
>> BTW: said trucker could only get out of the cul-du-sac by attempting to
>> back it into the only driveway on the street where someone was not home.
>
>The semis carrying the wind turbine blades that were noted are well over
>53' and are special oversize permit loads. They need to take extra wide
>turns even on multi lane main roads, but again *they* and their lead and
>chase vehicles are responsible for doing this safely.

The truckers invariably are doing every thing they can to avoid
trouble while maneuvering the oversize loads, and I've seen LOTS of
idiot drivers who are in too big a hurry to allow them to make their
turn safely. You block them, and they try to go up on the sidewalk to
get around you.

The only way to make them behave is have a cop there. And not a
security guard, someone with ticketing and arrest powers and the
ability to make your insurance rates triple.

I see more problems from truckers driving regulation loads and
trailers on busy city streets clipping curbs and light poles - and
occasionally fire hydrants...

Because the trucker should have taken the curve much wider, but they
would have people cutting around on the inside with their cars and
getting hit by the trailer if the truck swung wide enough to do it
cleanly.

Happens daily on a busy curve near home. The four-wheelers don't
understand that once the tractor commits to the turn, they often can
not see the tail of the trailer or anyone trying to make the sneak
move - there are blind spots you can lose an ocean liner in.

They can't see that they need to stop, yet they get the blame for
hitting the other guy where he shouldn't have been.

" I Me Mine, yes I own the road, here's the receipt." (As they wave
the Mercedes lease papers.)

--<< Bruce >>--

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 8:47 am
From: Bruce L. Bergman

On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 19:16:13 -0500, Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:

>Bruce L. Bergman <bruceNOSPAMbergman@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> And I'd have to rebuild my flatbed single-axle trailer to get it
>>home, you can't take that rig on the freeway.
>
>And you won't like Illinois tolls for a trailer either.

Worse, I'll bet the sonsab****es put speed bumps on all the side
roads that avoid the toll roads. On purpose.

Shouldn't give them ideas... (Sorry, Iggy.)

There are still times " I Love L.A." The parking might not be free
anymore, but the roads still are.

--<< Bruce >>--

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 8:49 am
From: Ignoramus23515

On 2010-02-19, Bruce L Bergman <bruceNOSPAMbergman@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 19:16:13 -0500, Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
>
>>Bruce L. Bergman <bruceNOSPAMbergman@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> And I'd have to rebuild my flatbed single-axle trailer to get it
>>>home, you can't take that rig on the freeway.
>>
>>And you won't like Illinois tolls for a trailer either.
>
> Worse, I'll bet the sonsab****es put speed bumps on all the side
> roads that avoid the toll roads. On purpose.
>
> Shouldn't give them ideas... (Sorry, Iggy.)
>
> There are still times " I Love L.A." The parking might not be free
> anymore, but the roads still are.

I think that the concept of toll roads is just fine, accidentally,
with apropriate safeguards. This means that drivers pay for roads, and
not non-drivers.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:01 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Many of the present models of welders have aluminum windings in the
transformers.
The aluminum windings were used prior to year 2000, but I dunno how much
earlier.
On several of the domesic USA welder manufacturers' websites, there are
comments in the FAQ sections wrt aluminum windings.

My Hobart MIG welder (2002, maybe) has aluminum windings, but my
Solar/Century MIG from the early 90s has copper.

Also, many induction motors have stators wound with aluminum, and some of it
has a dark red colored coating that looks like enameled copper wire.

I'm not aware of any aluminum windings used on AC/DC universal, or DC motor
armatures. I would think wound aluminum wire for armature use would be
highly problematic.

--
WB
.........

"Leo Lichtman" <leo.lichtman@att.net> wrote in message
news:lvKdncSGaovwNuHWnZ2dnUVZ_sadnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
> "Ignoramus15568" wrote: (clip) and all copper windings, (clip)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> I didn't know windings were ever made of anything else. Iggy, or anyone,
> can you fill me in?
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Questions raised by Bob's VFD experiment
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/bd630ee7656817f4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 8:51 am
From: "Roger Shoaf"

After reading Bob Engalhardt's post about running his motor at about 6 times
the design speed by increasing the frequency to 360 Hz.

In school they talk about an induction motor causing the voltage to lead the
current, but in the situation where the frequency is increased, does the
phenomenon ever cause the voltage to come back into phase with the current
albeit one cycle out?

If so does the motor then run more efficiently at that frequency?

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:09 am
From: Cross-Slide <3t3d@centurytel.net>

On Feb 19, 10:51 am, "Roger Shoaf" <sh...@nospamsyix.com> wrote:
> After reading Bob Engalhardt's post about running his motor at about 6 times
> the design speed by increasing the frequency to 360 Hz.
>
> In school they talk about an induction motor causing the voltage to lead the
> current, but in the situation where the frequency is increased, does the
> phenomenon ever cause the voltage to come back into phase with the current
> albeit one cycle out?
>
> If so does the motor then run more efficiently at that frequency?
>
> --
> Roger Shoaf
> If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

Any phase angle difference is always at a maximum of 90 degrees out.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:32 am
From: "Roger Shoaf"

"Cross-Slide" <3t3d@centurytel.net> wrote in message
news:f5cd8c85-a54b-4aae-9352-e2ae85a0ffa5@o30g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 19, 10:51 am, "Roger Shoaf" <sh...@nospamsyix.com> wrote:
> After reading Bob Engalhardt's post about running his motor at about 6
times
> the design speed by increasing the frequency to 360 Hz.
>
> In school they talk about an induction motor causing the voltage to lead
the
> current, but in the situation where the frequency is increased, does the
> phenomenon ever cause the voltage to come back into phase with the current
> albeit one cycle out?
>
> If so does the motor then run more efficiently at that frequency?
>
>

Any phase angle difference is always at a maximum of 90 degrees out.

What stops it at 90 degrees?

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:43 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I wonder if the motor's HP output starts to drop significantly at somewhere
around or over 4x the rated RPM.
I suppose that the HP ouput is much lower at higher speeds.

Although the motor continues to run at many times the rated speed, I suspect
that it would fail (smoke, not explode) at or before 4x maybe if a
reasonable load (of 1/2 to 1 HP) was being driven.

I'm not suggesting that Bob connect the motor to a load since the original
experiment is dangerous enough.

Being able to see the results of such experiments performed in appropriate
protective enclosures would be ineresting (or at an isolated location like
where Mythbusters did the water heater experiments).
Very high speed video cameras would most likely make some enjoyable videos.

There must be some occupations where rotating mechanisms to the point of
destruction was a fairly common event, but I suspect that much of that type
of analysis is done with computers now, not actually scattering parts.

--
WB
.........

"Roger Shoaf" <shoaf@nospamsyix.com> wrote in message
news:1266598202.488774@news01.syix.com...
> After reading Bob Engalhardt's post about running his motor at about 6
> times
> the design speed by increasing the frequency to 360 Hz.
>
> In school they talk about an induction motor causing the voltage to lead
> the
> current, but in the situation where the frequency is increased, does the
> phenomenon ever cause the voltage to come back into phase with the current
> albeit one cycle out?
>
> If so does the motor then run more efficiently at that frequency?
>
> --
> Roger Shoaf
> If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
>
>

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:52 am
From: Ignoramus23515

Very inspiring and commendable.

I will set out to acquire a free or almost free 3600 RPM motor for a
similar experiment.

I actually have such a motor (3 HP), but it is too nice to ruin.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 10:04 am
From: Bob Engelhardt

Something interesting happened last night, that may or may not be
relevant to your question.

DoN wondered whether it would even start with an initial freq of 360, so
I reduced to "accel" time to 1/10 sec (with output freq of 360 Hz).
When I pushed "start" the speed snapped up, but not to 10700 (2400 IIRC)
& there was a different sound from the motor windings.

As I turned down the speed pot at some point the motor started speeding
up & then down as I continued. I may not have the behavior exactly
right, but it was quite peculiar. This strangeness was present as I
increased the accel time until I got to 6 sec. Then it was fine.

So I expect that I'm going to be learning something new about motors,
Bob

==============================================================================
TOPIC: get kelp
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/eec65e65482c1bb5?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:05 am
From: kb9rqz

On Feb 18, 2:51 pm, kb9rqz <m...@kb9rqz.com> wrote:
> On Dec 25 2009, 12:35 pm, kb9rqz <m...@kb9rqz.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Dec 24, 1:14 pm, kb9rqz <m...@kb9rqz.com> wrote:
>
> > > On Dec 23, 11:37 am, kb9rqz <m...@kb9rqz.com> wrote:
>
> > > > On Dec 23, 2:27 am, Morkie Marqueer <markie.marqu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > - Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT Mini-SUV's, what's good?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/d9c9526f0cea703f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:37 am
From: Monkey Butler

On Feb 19, 6:57 am, "RogerN" <re...@midwest.net> wrote:
> OK, got my financing arranged and looking to buy my wife a vehicle for the
> $5K - $6K range. I found a 2001 Mazda Tribute in the area with a 3.0L V-6
> engine, I'm wondering if that's the same engine used in the Ford Ranger that
> lasts 300K miles? This Mazda is priced at about NADA book value and has
> 144K miles.
>
> Any recommendations on small size SUV type vehicles as far as long life and
> reliable? (4runner, Escape, Pathfinder, ...)
>
> Thanks!
>
> RogerN

If you are looking for something on the smallish side and want
something sturdy and reliable what about a Chevy Tracker 1999 -2004.
Before 1999 it was know as the Geo Tracker.

It may be too spartan and unrefined for some but to me this is a plus.

The Chevy Tracker is the same platform and engine as the Suzuki Vitara
and was built alongside in the California plant that was shared with
Toyota/Geo. You should be able to get a Chevy for a significant
discount vs. the Suzuki badge vehicle.

The 2.0 inline four is as simple as it gets and will go forever but
watch the front seal for leaking. Also available with a V6 which I am
unfamiliar with. Both auto and manual 5 speed versions have manual
shift on the fly 4WD transfer case with vacuum locking front hubs.
Make sure they engage. Body on frame construction and very capable off
road even in stock form.

You should be able to get low mileage (<60K) in your price range and
something with a 144K for a lot less.

I bought a two door fixer upper on somewhat of a whim and I liked it
so much I bought another one (4DR) for my wife and she has fallen in
love with it too. Everyone that I've met that has owned one thought
highly of the car.

Steve P.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: WITHOUT QUESTION, THIS IS THE MOST ATTRACTIVE VEHICLE MANUFACTURED IN
2010.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/ef37233e0c494dfa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:37 am
From: boyari2

NICE, HUH?

http://surftofind.com/dodge

Any worthy rivals?

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 10:11 am
From: "pdrahn@coinet.com"

On Feb 19, 9:37 am, boyari2 <boya...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> NICE, HUH?
>
> http://surftofind.com/dodge
>
> Any worthy rivals?

Yeah, nice. For a Fiat!

Ford Mustang is nicer!

Paul

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 10:40 am
From: wolfgang

On Feb 19, 1:11 pm, "pdr...@coinet.com" <co_far...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Feb 19, 9:37 am, boyari2 <boya...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > NICE, HUH?
>
> >http://surftofind.com/dodge
>
> > Any worthy rivals?
>
> Yeah, nice. For a Fiat!
>
> Ford Mustang is nicer!
>
> Paul

My '93 RX-7.

Wolfgang

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 10:53 am
From: Tim Wescott

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 09:37:52 -0800, boyari2 wrote:

> NICE, HUH?

If you like old Mopars, or new Mopars (or Fiats) trying to look like old
Mopars.

> http://surftofind.com/dodge
>
>
> Any worthy rivals?

_Anything_ hand built, anything that achieves a decent power/weight ratio
by bringing the weight down instead of the power up, etc.

Or this:

http://home.earthlink.net/~roygmisc1/newmanbug1/newmanbug1.html

--
www.wescottdesign.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Palin?s Unfavorability Ratings At All-Time High
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/444787d3bca9ddfe?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:42 am
From: Beam Me Up Scotty

On 2/19/2010 11:18 AM, §nühw¤£f wrote:
> Cliff <Clhuprichguesswhat@aoltmovetheperiodc.om> clouded the waters
> of pure thought with news:qsuqn5ddtjut7c7ossoa3l6nig7cm5nsed@4ax.com:
>
>> On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:16:07 -0600, "RD (The Sandman)"
>> <rdsandman(spamlock)@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>>>> Then why are you guys so afraid of her? ;)
>>>>
>>>> You are projecting again.
>>>> Is she better educated or smarter than you are?
>>>
>>> Nope, but I am not sure about how she matches up with you.
>>
>> I never cheated on anything, much less a test or exam.
>> She seem to think it's all about cheating & lying.
>
> Rule Number One in the Repug playbook:
>
> 1) Its ok to cheat so long as you win.
>
> 2) Its ok to quit so long as you call it winning.
>
> ^_^
>
Harry Reid "The war is lost"

Blago "I'm Innocent"

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:46 am
From: "John R. Carroll"

Beam Me Up Scotty wrote:
> On 2/19/2010 11:18 AM, §nühw¤£f wrote:
>> Cliff <Clhuprichguesswhat@aoltmovetheperiodc.om> clouded the waters
>> of pure thought with news:qsuqn5ddtjut7c7ossoa3l6nig7cm5nsed@4ax.com:
>>
>>> On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:16:07 -0600, "RD (The Sandman)"
>>> <rdsandman(spamlock)@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> Then why are you guys so afraid of her? ;)
>>>>>
>>>>> You are projecting again.
>>>>> Is she better educated or smarter than you are?
>>>>
>>>> Nope, but I am not sure about how she matches up with you.
>>>
>>> I never cheated on anything, much less a test or exam.
>>> She seem to think it's all about cheating & lying.
>>
>> Rule Number One in the Repug playbook:
>>
>> 1) Its ok to cheat so long as you win.
>>
>> 2) Its ok to quit so long as you call it winning.
>>
>> ^_^
>>
> Harry Reid "The war is lost"
>
> Blago "I'm Innocent"

"Mission Accomplished" - goober bush

--
John R. Carroll

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mag light corrosion (some metal content)
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/e2b78f0cacd762ff?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:43 am
From: "Stormin Mormon"

I carry a mini mag and a squeeze light when I'm up
and about. And a short light with three AAA cells
in my nightrobe pocket.

20 years ago, a RS guy told me Duracell is the
company that makes RS batteries. Could easily have
changed.

Thinking I should sticker outside the Mag Light,
as to what brand of batteries contained. In case
they leak and the light is unsavable.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Erik" <spam@this.com> wrote in message
news:spam-193F25.13041118022010@news.dslextreme.com...

By the way, both Mini Mags were in place, and got
a good bit of use
following the 94 Northridge quake... our area of
town was 'power free'
for 4 days following that one. I carried a MM
around 24/7 for months
after Northridge.

I like Duracell, but have also used a lot of Radio
Shack batteries with
no problems... I think keeping them cool and fresh
is the main key to
reliable battery powered devices.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 9:45 am
From: "Stormin Mormon"

The old carbon cells. If you pull them apart, the
zinc can comes apart fairly easily with diagonal
side cutting pliers. The carbon rod is good for
writing on sidewalks. And the manganese dioxide
will make your Mom yell at you about the mess
(this, I know...)

Never been urged to saw open an alkaline cell. I'm
sure you are right.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Terry" <prfesser@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:r6btn5hjvhgk0vj1tu5tmhvrolad5cefb1@4ax.com...

Many alkaline cells have a very different
construction from the older plain-vanilla
(Leclance) cells. The
Leclance cell has a carbon rod in the middle, a
zinc can, and
manganese dioxide plus ammonium chloride in
between. Many alkaline
cells use a can pressed from carbon and whatnot, a
zinc rod in the
middle, and an alkaline mixture containing fine
zinc between. Dropping
an alkaline cell might fracture that outside can,
leading to leakage.

Please wear good rubber gloves and proper eye
protection before
attempting to saw open an alkaline cell. The KOH
in those cells is
nothing to snicker at.

Best -- Terry

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is it? Set 324
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/8357ba5857a5fa66?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 10:25 am
From: Dust Bunny Queen

> 1887) Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. I strongly
> suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval bronze".
>
> And -- I think that they are propeller shafts for fairly small
> boats. The tapered and keyed ends of two of them would accept
> the propeller with a tapered hole, and the key slot accepts a
> key to keep the propeller from rotating on the shaft. The
> threaded end accepts a castelated nut to pull the propeller
> firmly on the shaft, and the cross-drilled hole accepts a bronze
> cotter key to keep the nut from unscrewing.
>
> The upper one appears to be incomplete. It has the key, but
> does not appear to have the taper and certainly does not have
> the threaded section. Perhaps the taper and/or thread was
> damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it on a lathe
> to fit a new propeller.
>
> Normal brass has zinc in it, which dissolved out in water,
> especially in salt water, while the bronze specified will last a
> long time under water.
>
>
We are checking to confirm brass or bronze. The color in the photo is
correct. A bluish gray. The are over 3 1/2 feet long and solid. Very
very heavy. So I doubt they are propeller shafts for any 'small'
boat.

You are right. The upper one is incomplete. It appears that the
machined end had been sawed off at one point. There is nothing to
grip on or get any traction on the larger plain end if the intent was
to turn the rods from that end. The rods are tapered: being narrower
in circumfrence on the machined end.

They come from an estate of a 89 year old man who was a former John
Deere and CAT dealer and an ultimate pack rat. We have no clue as to
what the rods usage was or what they belonged to as a machinery part.

Mystery...don't we love it?

Oh...and the printing press is a platen press.....my family was in the
printing business and we used one in a small printing company and
weekly newspaper in the 1950's that my parent's operated.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 10:28 am
From: Dave__67

On Feb 19, 1:25 pm, Dust Bunny Queen <rulanmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > 1887) Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. I strongly
> > suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval bronze".
>
> > And -- I think that they are propeller shafts for fairly small
> > boats. The tapered and keyed ends of two of them would accept
> > the propeller with a tapered hole, and the key slot accepts a
> > key to keep the propeller from rotating on the shaft. The
> > threaded end accepts a castelated nut to pull the propeller
> > firmly on the shaft, and the cross-drilled hole accepts a bronze
> > cotter key to keep the nut from unscrewing.
>
> > The upper one appears to be incomplete. It has the key, but
> > does not appear to have the taper and certainly does not have
> > the threaded section. Perhaps the taper and/or thread was
> > damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it on a lathe
> > to fit a new propeller.
>
> > Normal brass has zinc in it, which dissolved out in water,
> > especially in salt water, while the bronze specified will last a
> > long time under water.
>
> We are checking to confirm brass or bronze. The color in the photo is
> correct. A bluish gray. The are over 3 1/2 feet long and solid. Very
> very heavy. So I doubt they are propeller shafts for any 'small'
> boat.
>
> You are right. The upper one is incomplete. It appears that the
> machined end had been sawed off at one point. There is nothing to
> grip on or get any traction on the larger plain end if the intent was
> to turn the rods from that end. The rods are tapered: being narrower
> in circumfrence on the machined end.
>
> They come from an estate of a 89 year old man who was a former John
> Deere and CAT dealer and an ultimate pack rat. We have no clue as to
> what the rods usage was or what they belonged to as a machinery part.
>
> Mystery...don't we love it?
>
> Oh...and the printing press is a platen press.....my family was in the
> printing business and we used one in a small printing company and
> weekly newspaper in the 1950's that my parent's operated.

Dang- steering wheel shaft? But why not steel, then...

Dave

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hold my beer & watch this ...
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/661f0ce12db7018f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 19 2010 11:23 am
From: Bob Engelhardt

Larry Jaques wrote:
> Absolutely amazing. How did you measure rpm?

I have a "laser" tach. E.g.,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66632

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Friday, February 19, 2010

rec.crafts.metalworking - 25 new messages in 10 topics - digest

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