rec.crafts.metalworking - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest
rec.crafts.metalworking
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking?hl=en
rec.crafts.metalworking@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* My recent fights with loctite. - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/3a9b328b040e483f?hl=en
* I was almost impounded, laptop saved me - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/22b99ed7799b84db?hl=en
* Hobart Gasoline Welder - 7 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/ec8d843faba8846b?hl=en
* Vapor pressure of mixtures (was Re: Alternatives to LPS-2) - 2 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/c986024af47a68d0?hl=en
* January - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/500a9e8efc722005?hl=en
* Annealing brass and other non ferrous metals - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/cc3bc555e909fa61?hl=en
* More pix of this Series II - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/31636df86429c253?hl=en
* DIY Two-Stroke Engine - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/bcf5d37475198771?hl=en
* Larios Horizontal mill and shop straightening - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/2abaee7e613ad0f8?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: My recent fights with loctite.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/3a9b328b040e483f?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:07 pm
From: "Robert Swinney"
Good one, Wes. It'd make a great loctite commercial. I'm not clear on 1 point; when you went: "I
made a 5c collet closer setup for my 6903 lathe. I fixed the hand wheel for tightening it using
permatex red. I *thought* it would release at 375F if I wanted to change things." Had you already
made the 5C closer or did you go to all that trouble as a step in your fight to free the cam
follower??
Bob Swinney
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:03 pm
From: "Snag"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
> Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
>> Earlier this week I had to get a cam follower out of a machine. The
>> follower was sticking at times causing the machine that rotates a
>> part and inserts a stud to fail on the last hole.
>>
>> The sticking and failing on the last hole was a matter of geometry
>> and physics. Sure drove me nuts for a while. Can't go into since
>> it is a manufacturing process.
>>
>> Anyway, I needed to get this McGee cam follower out. It had a
>> screwdriver slot but I couldn't unscrew it. So I ground a
>> screwdriver to fit the slot, used a arbor press and a fellow tech to
>> force the screw driver into the slot while I used a crecent wrench
>> on the square shaft of the screw driver (sears craftsman) to break
>> it loose. I learned that threadlocker was involved in this. Likely
>> the blue stuff.
>
> It's interesting you meantion the use of the square shafted craftsman
> screwdriver with a wrench. That's pretty common move over here.
>
> Does anybody know of any other companies that even sell square shafted
> screwdrivers? For as much slack as sears is getting for generally
> lower grade tools, those and pretty handy as well as the really large
> flat drivers that are really just prybars in real life.
I've seen screwdrivers that had a hex section right up by the handle . Got a
couple of Snap-on's like that .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:36 pm
From: Ignoramus26053
On 2010-03-07, Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
> Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
>> Earlier this week I had to get a cam follower out of a machine. The follower was sticking
>> at times causing the machine that rotates a part and inserts a stud to fail on the last
>> hole.
>>
>> The sticking and failing on the last hole was a matter of geometry and physics. Sure
>> drove me nuts for a while. Can't go into since it is a manufacturing process.
>>
>> Anyway, I needed to get this McGee cam follower out. It had a screwdriver slot but I
>> couldn't unscrew it. So I ground a screwdriver to fit the slot, used a arbor press and a
>> fellow tech to force the screw driver into the slot while I used a crecent wrench on the
>> square shaft of the screw driver (sears craftsman) to break it loose. I learned that
>> threadlocker was involved in this. Likely the blue stuff.
>
> It's interesting you meantion the use of the square shafted craftsman
> screwdriver with a wrench. That's pretty common move over here.
>
> Does anybody know of any other companies that even sell square shafted
> screwdrivers? For as much slack as sears is getting for generally lower
> grade tools, those and pretty handy as well as the really large flat
> drivers that are really just prybars in real life.
I have two Harbor Freight screwdrivers with square shafts. These are
huge, approx. 18 inches long. I used a wrench on one of them recently,
when I was opening up the motor from the lathe. I could not open it
otherwise.
i
==============================================================================
TOPIC: I was almost impounded, laptop saved me
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/22b99ed7799b84db?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:03 pm
From: Ignoramus26053
On 2010-03-06, Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
> Ignoramus26053 <ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote:
>
>>> It's bad that you need a laptop and wireless broadband because the police
>>> don't know the law.
>>
>>Yes, and it could be much, much worse.
>
> Yes it could. Had they realized what you were up to, they could have used the 'officer
> safety' card to keep you from going on line and possibly summoning help. They have wide
> latitude in restricting your actions during a stop.
>
> Had they improperly impounded your trailer, you would then have to sue in court for
> relief. At the same time your bridgeport would be rusting away in open storage and
> impound fees would be accruing that you would have to win a suit against the governmental
> unit in order to have paid. Then there is the matter of damages and I'm sure their idea
> of damages is just what you paid and nothing more. My bud calls that sort of situation a,
> "Nine line bind".
>
> I'm sure glad you came out whole.
Wes, you are indeed 100% on the mark. I think that with the judge in
cohorts with the administration and police, I am sure that I would
have gotten the mill back, at the expense of a lagel process, and I
would never be made whole.
i
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:14 pm
From: clare@snyder.on.ca
On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 15:10:24 -0600, "Up North" <BR549@canospam.com>
wrote:
>
>"Roger Shoaf" <shoaf@nospamsyix.com> wrote in message
>news:1267909267.646408@news01.syix.com...
>>
>> "Ignoramus26053" <ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote in message
>> news:Ld-dnSzZg-k56w_WnZ2dnUVZ_vWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>>
>>> I will personally get a Class C license, just in case.
>>>
>>> i
>>
>> Before you go changing your drivers license, why don't you go to the
>> highway
>> patrol office and get the exact story on what your current license allows
>> you to haul.
>>
>> The weight sticker thing is as I understand it for commercial vehicles and
>> is there for calculating weight fees, so that might not be applicable to
>> non
>> commercial hauling.
>
>
>Commercial is when you are making or trying to make money with the goods you
>are hauling, I believe Iggy falls under this category.
>
>
Commercial is hauling ANY goods that are not your personal posession,
whether for gain or not. At least that's how it is interpreted up
here.
>
>
>>
>>
>> By getting a different license and a commercial classification on your
>> vehicle, you might be incurring multiple headaches such as increased
>> insurance rates, inspections and other regulatory BS that would cost you
>> more than hiring a truck to haul the big stuff.
>
>
>
>And it might keep you out of the hoo-scow
>
>Steve
>
>
>
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:27 pm
From: Ignoramus26053
On 2010-03-07, Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
> Ignoramus28336 <ignoramus28336@nospam.28336.invalid> wrote:
>> I rented a lowboy and picked up the mill. I was going slowly and
>> stoped to check that the straps are tight. A police car pulled by and
...
>> Then he came back and told me that my class D drivers license allows
>> me to only pull vehicles with total weight rating of up to 22,000 lbs
...
>> I had a laptop with me and it had a special wireless broadband
>> card. So, I googled "Illinois class C license weight" and found this
>> page:
...
>> I showed this to the police officers , they talked a bit and then told
>> me that they are giving me the "benefit of the doubt" and that
...
> nice save.
> It sounds like that if they really wanted to completely ruin your day,
> they could have- as in bust you then try to sort things out later and
> ignore whatever crap you pulled up on some laptop.
>
> You even got pulled over twice, the second time because it took a while
> for them to find another reason to stop you (no sticker).
I was pulled over only once. The first time I stopped by myself, to
check my rigging, and then the police pulled in. I always stop after
driving 1-2 initial miles, as straps need some tightening.
I think that what helped is that I acted relatively cool, did not spit
at them, etc. I read a book on how to be assertive, a while ago, and
followed it. This really helps in many encounters.
That said, to their credit, the police officers were friendly and
fair.
i
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:36 pm
From: "azotic"
"Ignoramus26053" <ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote in message
news:npidnYD-0__aZQ_WnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
> I am now taking a dimmer view of this situation. I think that these
> policemen were on the prowl for suckers to replenish the coffers of
> that particular town. But, they had enough common sense to know that
> when someone figured out their BS, they should promptly back off.
>
> i
Check out the violation number on the ticket, it may be bougus.
A chicago cop gave me a ticket once and just made up a violation.
Went to court and asked for a reading of the law, thats when the
judge dismissed the ticket. They are hoping most people will just
pay the the ticket.
Illinois $13 billion budget deficit.
Best Regards
Tom.
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:49 pm
From: Ignoramus26053
On 2010-03-07, clare@snyder.on.ca <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
>
> Commercial is hauling ANY goods that are not your personal posession,
> whether for gain or not. At least that's how it is interpreted up
> here.
Then it was not commercial, since the mill was mine.
Let's say that you go to Walmart to buy a stapler that you want to use
in your business. Is that a "commercial hauling"? Not really.
i
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:58 pm
From: "Pete C."
"Steve W." wrote:
>
> Pete C. wrote:
> > "Steve W." wrote:
> >> Pete C. wrote:
> >>> Ignoramus26053 wrote:
> >>>> On 2010-03-06, RogerN <regor@midwest.net> wrote:
> >>>>> It's bad that you need a laptop and wireless broadband because the police
> >>>>> don't know the law.
> >>>> Yes, and it could be much, much worse.
> >>>>
> >>>>> I guess it's guilty until proven innocent? I just wish you could
> >>>>> sue the police for trying to impound you because of their mistake,
> >>>>> they need to be held accountable for their actions. They will have
> >>>>> to be more careful and make sure not to pull over people with
> >>>>> wireless broadband.
> >>>> I do not think that I can sue them for trying to impound it, but if
> >>>> they did, I would have a case.
> >>>>
> >>>>> I have a 1 ton pickup truck and always thought it would be nice to have a
> >>>>> large capacity trailer so I could take my forklift with me to a machinery
> >>>>> auction and haul some toys home.
> >>>> I will personally get a Class C license, just in case.
> >>>>
> >>>> i
> >>> I've been considering getting a non-commercial class A license so I have
> >>> maximum flexibility.
> >> No such animal any longer.
> >> Class A,B,C are all CDL.
> >> Used to be that you could get one and then if you were hauling personal
> >> items you didn't have to worry about much. Now you have to have a
> >> current medical ID to drive any vehicle if you have a CDL.
> >> They have been changing the laws a bunch over the past couple years.
> >> PLUS the states can still enact stricter laws. Some states are really
> >> cracking down on heavy looking loads. Others are enacting BS laws that
> >> will catch you for odd crap. Florida put into effect a law that was
> >> tagging a lot of Suburban, Excursion, Dually owners for driving out of
> >> class. It made big news in the RV/Trailer crowd for a few months.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Steve W.
> >
> > Last I looked non-commercial A still existed here.
>
> I would check REAL close. Federal law doesn't allow it any longer and
> A,B,C class tags fall under Federal Motor Carrier jurisdiction.
> PA just enacted a bunch of new laws or faced elimination of 22 million
> in federal funding.
> Many states have already changed the laws because of this.
>
> --
> Steve W.
Well, fortunately I'm in Texas, which routinely tells the feds where to
go and what to do. Dunno, every license I've ever had has been C, even
my first license back in CT.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hobart Gasoline Welder
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/ec8d843faba8846b?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:05 pm
From: stans4@prolynx.com
On Mar 6, 5:50 pm, Gunner Asch <gunnera...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 15:01:02 -0800, Gunner Asch <gunnera...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 16:37:47 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> ><mike.terr...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >>Gunner Asch wrote:
>
> >>> On Fri, 05 Mar 2010 20:56:26 -0600, Ignoramus28336
> >>> <ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.28336.invalid> wrote:
>
> >>> >Good thing that it is a simplified welder. Nice cables too.
>
> >>> >Does it crank?
>
> >>> >i
>
> >>> No idea. Its missing the battery.
>
> >>> Chuckle..the welding leads I suspect are as hard as a rock. Here in the
> >>> high desert...when its 120F..and stuff enclosed in a metal box and stand
> >>> in the sun for a number of years...getting up to 150=160F....
> >>> Standing just right..the stinger shows crystalization of the plastic.
> >>> Shrug..Ive got lots and lots of stingers if that one starts to
> >>> disintergrate.
>
> >>> Ill have to check everything out, fill the empty radiator, add some
> >>> fuel, etc etc and try it out. I did notice that there is No air
> >>> cleaner..though the air stack goes way way up into the upper dome of the
> >>> cabinet. After seeing that..Id be quite suprised if it has "good"
> >>> compression. Though to be fair...up that high..it may not have sucked
> >>> up any "big" stuff.
>
> >>> Ill take some photos of the other side..where the water jacket cracked
> >>> many years ago and they patched it. It was on a ranch up in the
> >>> Sierras..and it may have frozen. I was told once..but after the
> >>> stroke..some tidbits went away. No biggie.
>
> >>> I think Ill run the engine down to the car wash and blow out the birds
> >>> nests, tumbleweeds and whatnot that cover the motor itself.
>
> >> Make sure to use plenty of steam to remove all the 'Liberal
> >>droppings'! ;-)
>
> >ROFLMAO! Indeed.
>
> >Gunner
>
> > Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
> > wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
> > something damned nasty to all three of them.
>
> I added some pics after its trip to the carwash, including the Left side
> of the engine.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/HobartGasolineWelder#
>
> Ive posted the infor and a request on the Hobart group and was told it
> was a Chrysler inline 6.
> Still dont know the year of manufacture..or even if it can be
> started...soon.
>
> Gunner
>
I'd replace fuel line before even thinking of putting gas in it, I
base that on a VW I resurrected years ago. Every bit of rubber on the
thing had to be replaced, I was lucky I didn't have a nice barbecue.
What you might see if you can do is to get the thing to fire off on
either the vapor from a propane torch inserted in the carb intake or a
couple of tablespoons of gas dumped down same. A set of well
separated jumper cables would substitute for the missing battery.
Would give you a better idea if it's worth working over or just
parting out. Right after that would be changing oil, then changing
out rubber and maybe wiring.
Stan
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:17 pm
From: Larry Jaques
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 10:28:27 -0800, the infamous Gunner Asch
<gunnerasch@gmail.com> scrawled the following:
>On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 11:23:06 -0500, "Buerste" <buerste@buerste.com>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>"Gunner Asch" <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:63c3p5ddu7sh8r3s07h3t9vmvts58887r7@4ax.com...
>>> Anyone know anything about this beasty?
>>>
>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/HobartGasolineWelder#
>>>
>>> I brought it home last night. Previous owner claimed it ran the last
>>> time they welded with it..about 12 yrs ago. Look at the wheels....blink
>>> blink..Ive never seen a wheel with no hole in the middle before. I drug
>>> it from Bakersfield..about 45 miles at 55-60 mph and the bearings didnt
>>> get warm..and I know it had sat parked for at least 8 yrs since they
>>> pulled it down from the ranch.
>>>
>>> Owner claimed it had come off a Liberty Ship vintage WW2...shrug
>>>
>>> Anyone have any ideas?
>>>
>>> Gunner
>>>
>>> Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
>>> wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
>>> something damned nasty to all three of them.
>>
>>
>>With a bit of luck the engine is free. I remember your stuck piston
>>adventure.
>>
>Cringe...yeah..that has concerned me. What would you guys do prior to
>trying to start up an engine thats sat for 12 or more years?
Fresh gas in the tank and carb, Marvel Mystery oil down the bore, pop
the distributor and use a drill to build up the oil pressure, and hand
rotate it through at least a couple revs before using the starter, to
make sure you don't already have broken parts in there ready to do
damage when it's cranked.
--
The blind are not good trailblazers.
-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:24 pm
From: Larry Jaques
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 16:50:38 -0800, the infamous Gunner Asch
<gunnerasch@gmail.com> scrawled the following:
>I added some pics after its trip to the carwash, including the Left side
>of the engine.
>
>http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/HobartGasolineWelder#
>
>Ive posted the infor and a request on the Hobart group and was told it
>was a Chrysler inline 6.
>Still dont know the year of manufacture..or even if it can be
>started...soon.
Wow, some hack electrician must have wired up that trailer for ya.
<snort> That block looks like the same one they use for the slant 6,
IIRC. Other than the flat head, it could be a newer engine.
Hey, did you see that they recalled some Obama Motors Cobalts for
steering problems the other day? I'd begun to think that they were
running down Toyota to get rid of the competition. Guess not.
--
The blind are not good trailblazers.
-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:50 pm
From: Gunner Asch
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 18:31:03 -0600, Ignoramus26053
<ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote:
>On 2010-03-06, Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Fri, 05 Mar 2010 20:56:26 -0600, Ignoramus28336
>><ignoramus28336@NOSPAM.28336.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>>Good thing that it is a simplified welder. Nice cables too.
>>>
>>>Does it crank?
>>>
>>>i
>>
>> No idea. Its missing the battery.
>>
>> Chuckle..the welding leads I suspect are as hard as a rock. Here in the
>> high desert...when its 120F..and stuff enclosed in a metal box and
>stand
>
>No, it is old insulation, prior to use of neoprene rubber.
>
>I would just try cranking it without any special preparations.
>
>If it does not crank, see if it is frozen. If it is, take it to the
>scrap yard along with the remains of the other welder. If it is not
>frozen, I would mess with it a little.
>
>I would not personally spend too much time on it, it is
>counterproductive. If a couple of "easy fixes" do not fix it, just
>sell it with full disclosure or part it out. This is just a personal
>opinion.
>
>The age is beyond what is maintainable, no one knows these engines any
>more, no parts are available, etc. I doubt it has much collector
>value, but if you are lucky and its runs, it would be a great luck and
>a success story.
>
So far Im able to determine that the engine is extremely common, made up
to the late 1970s. A Chrysler inline 6 and used in many automobiles as
well as industrial equipment.
So engine parts should be fairly easy to get, based on viewing posts on
a number of welding newsgroups.
The welder of course..shrug..all the wire looks to be in acceptable
condition so Im not terribly concerned about that portion.
Gunner
>i
>
>> in the sun for a number of years...getting up to 150=160F....
>> Standing just right..the stinger shows crystalization of the plastic.
>> Shrug..Ive got lots and lots of stingers if that one starts to
>> disintergrate.
>>
>> Ill have to check everything out, fill the empty radiator, add some
>> fuel, etc etc and try it out. I did notice that there is No air
>> cleaner..though the air stack goes way way up into the upper dome of the
>> cabinet. After seeing that..Id be quite suprised if it has "good"
>> compression. Though to be fair...up that high..it may not have sucked
>> up any "big" stuff.
>>
>> Ill take some photos of the other side..where the water jacket cracked
>> many years ago and they patched it. It was on a ranch up in the
>> Sierras..and it may have frozen. I was told once..but after the
>> stroke..some tidbits went away. No biggie.
>>
>> I think Ill run the engine down to the car wash and blow out the birds
>> nests, tumbleweeds and whatnot that cover the motor itself.
>>
>> Gunner
>>
>> Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
>> wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
>> something damned nasty to all three of them.
Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:51 pm
From: Ignoramus26053
On 2010-03-07, Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 18:31:03 -0600, Ignoramus26053
><ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote:
>
>>On 2010-03-06, Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On Fri, 05 Mar 2010 20:56:26 -0600, Ignoramus28336
>>><ignoramus28336@NOSPAM.28336.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Good thing that it is a simplified welder. Nice cables too.
>>>>
>>>>Does it crank?
>>>>
>>>>i
>>>
>>> No idea. Its missing the battery.
>>>
>>> Chuckle..the welding leads I suspect are as hard as a rock. Here in the
>>> high desert...when its 120F..and stuff enclosed in a metal box and
>>stand
>>
>>No, it is old insulation, prior to use of neoprene rubber.
>>
>>I would just try cranking it without any special preparations.
>>
>>If it does not crank, see if it is frozen. If it is, take it to the
>>scrap yard along with the remains of the other welder. If it is not
>>frozen, I would mess with it a little.
>>
>>I would not personally spend too much time on it, it is
>>counterproductive. If a couple of "easy fixes" do not fix it, just
>>sell it with full disclosure or part it out. This is just a personal
>>opinion.
>>
>>The age is beyond what is maintainable, no one knows these engines any
>>more, no parts are available, etc. I doubt it has much collector
>>value, but if you are lucky and its runs, it would be a great luck and
>>a success story.
>>
>
> So far Im able to determine that the engine is extremely common, made up
> to the late 1970s. A Chrysler inline 6 and used in many automobiles as
> well as industrial equipment.
This is great news!
i
> So engine parts should be fairly easy to get, based on viewing posts on
> a number of welding newsgroups.
>
> The welder of course..shrug..all the wire looks to be in acceptable
> condition so Im not terribly concerned about that portion.
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:56 pm
From: Gunner Asch
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 18:31:03 -0600, Ignoramus26053
<ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote:
>
>If it does not crank, see if it is frozen. If it is, take it to the
>scrap yard along with the remains of the other welder. If it is not
>frozen, I would mess with it a little.
Remains of the Miller 55G that my buddy is rebuilding for me?
Odd you would say that. Have you priced a used one recently?
Are you claiming that if an engine on a $2000 welder needs minor
rebuilding, one should simply throw it into the trash?
Sure you didnt take a pry bar to the head recently?
Gunner
Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 6:09 pm
From: "Buerste"
"Gunner Asch" <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8k75p59qimnetajgqst8kqd110ha7lk7tj@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 11:23:06 -0500, "Buerste" <buerste@buerste.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Gunner Asch" <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:63c3p5ddu7sh8r3s07h3t9vmvts58887r7@4ax.com...
>>> Anyone know anything about this beasty?
>>>
>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/HobartGasolineWelder#
>>>
>>> I brought it home last night. Previous owner claimed it ran the last
>>> time they welded with it..about 12 yrs ago. Look at the wheels....blink
>>> blink..Ive never seen a wheel with no hole in the middle before. I drug
>>> it from Bakersfield..about 45 miles at 55-60 mph and the bearings didnt
>>> get warm..and I know it had sat parked for at least 8 yrs since they
>>> pulled it down from the ranch.
>>>
>>> Owner claimed it had come off a Liberty Ship vintage WW2...shrug
>>>
>>> Anyone have any ideas?
>>>
>>> Gunner
>>>
>>> Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
>>> wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
>>> something damned nasty to all three of them.
>>
>>
>>With a bit of luck the engine is free. I remember your stuck piston
>>adventure.
>>
> Cringe...yeah..that has concerned me. What would you guys do prior to
> trying to start up an engine thats sat for 12 or more years?
>
> Gunner
>
> Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
> wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
> something damned nasty to all three of them.
Drink some beers? "Here, hold my beer and watch THIS!
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vapor pressure of mixtures (was Re: Alternatives to LPS-2)
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/c986024af47a68d0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:09 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"
What about recharging various aerosol products' cans with freon or other
commonly available compounds?
Other compounds.. canned air/duster products (difluoroethane)?
I realize that saving/recovering a bit of cheap product isn't worth a safety
risk, and I wouldn't have a pressing reason to recharge an aerosol can, but
if I did, I'd recharge it outdoors and use the contents at that time or not
take the can indoors.
I'm primarily just curious about propellants. Those heavy duty refillable
spray containers that are intended to be charged with compressed air don't
perform very well with compressed air.
For outdoor use, using one of those refillable sprayer gizmos might be more
practical than running a long air hose or portable air compressor with a
paint gun outdoors.
http://www.prodcatalog.com/catalog/ObjectServer?table=Images&id=30297&variant=Large+Product+Variant&mime=image/jpeg
http://weldwarehouse.securesites.com/cgi-bin/spider.pl?99532||1|451
--
WB
.........
"Jim Wilkins" <kb1dal@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:40e95982-51ce-4973-98f5-8867070deb87@g10g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Enormous, order(s) of magnitude. Consider acetylene dissolved in
> > acetone:
> >http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/metal/Welding-Practice/Dissolved-Acety...
> > "At atmospheric pressure and 15 deg. Cent, acetone dissolves 24 times
> > its volume of acetylene."
>
> That's an interesting article on acetone storage of acetylene.
>
> But something is perplexing me. In the above Purdue reference, the key
> sentence
> echoes Dalton's Law of Partial Pressures:
>
> "A volatile solute (i.e., a solute that has a vapor pressure of its own)
> will
> contribute to the vapor pressure above a solution in which it is
> dissolved. The
> vapor pressure above a solution containing a volatile solute (or solutes)
> is
> equal to the sum of the vapor pressures of the solvent and each of the
> volatile
> solutes."
>
> I think I'll look this up in my Physical Chem textbook.
>
> Joe Gwinn
Does it make sense to you if you think of the fraction in gas phase as
a gas and the fraction in the dissolved liquid phase as a liquid?
Liquids are 500 ~ 1000 times denser than gases.
Otherwise, sorry, chemistry isn't at all intuitive, at least until you
learn thermodynamics. An understanding of the fundamentals of
chemistry eluded Sir Isaac Newton despite his achievements in math and
physics, .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isaac_Newton's_occult_studies
jsw
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 6:02 pm
From: stans4@prolynx.com
On Mar 2, 6:17 pm, "Michael Koblic" <mkob...@gmail.com> wrote:
> "Ignoramus11220" <ignoramus11...@NOSPAM.11220.invalid> wrote in message
>
> news:h8ednTh9gYzscBbWnZ2dnUVZ_ridnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
> > LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
> > nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
> > penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
> > things, it will get to all the pieces in time.
>
> > The only minus of it is that it is expensive.
>
> > Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
> > not dry out.
>
> > Thanks
>
> You might be interested in a trial I did:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/27683124@N07/sets/72157623384305382/
>
> It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
> behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
> find out.
>
> In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.
>
> I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.
>
> --
> Michael Koblic,
> Campbell River, BC
I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene. LPS 1 is a far better
penetrant and the coating it leaves IS a lubricant. I use it on
padlock innards, usually good for several years in fully exposed
locks. Keeps the disc locks from bending or busting keys.
There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. LPS
100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under
sea water. Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted
longer than the attached antennas.
Stan
==============================================================================
TOPIC: January
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/500a9e8efc722005?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:08 pm
From: Cliff
On Fri, 5 Mar 2010 15:48:32 -0500, "Ed Huntress" <huntres23@optonline.net>
wrote:
>
>"JohnM" <john_howard_morgan@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
>news:70e018a2-40a6-414f-9a66-68b380a44827@19g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
>On Mar 5, 8:44 am, "Ed Huntress" <huntre...@optonline.net> wrote:
>> "JohnM" <john_howard_mor...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote in message
>>
>> news:86bfdd72-6ea2-4789-865c-5147bb8d20ce@u9g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>> On Mar 3, 4:20 pm, Cliff <Clhuprichguessw...@aoltmovetheperiodc.om>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Wed, 3 Mar 2010 05:35:58 -0800 (PST), JohnM
>>
>> > <john_howard_mor...@hotmail.co.uk> wrote:
>> > >On Mar 3, 2:55 pm, Zymrgy <zym...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > >> On Mar 2, 3:51 pm, Cliff <Clhuprichguessw...@aoltmovetheperiodc.om>
>> > >> wrote:
>>
>> > >> > On Sun, 28 Feb 2010 10:59:30 +0100, Peter Muehlbauer
>>
>> > >> > <spamtrap...@AT.frankenexpress.de> wrote:
>> > >> > >Cliff <Clhuprichguessw...@aoltmovetheperiodc.om> wrote:
>>
>> > >> > >>http://www.dailyexpress.co.uk/posts/view/160556
>> > >> > >> "WEATHER:
>>
>> > >> > >That's it.
>>
>> > >> > Nope
>> > >> > Entire planet is warming.
>> > >> > That is not weather.
>>
>> > >> So THATS why they had snow in Florida this year...not because of
>> > >> weather...because it was warm?????
>>
>> > >Changes in the climate don't make the weather more predictable, I'm
>> > >afraid.
>>
>> > >> I find it odd that in January, the
>> > >> entire British isle was covered in snow....at one point there was
>> > >> snow
>> > >> in all 50 states, the Florida citrus crop was severely damaged....yet
>> > >> it was warmer than normal?
>>
>> > >That's the way it goes it would seem. Nobody really knows how a
>> > >steadily warming planet will respond on a day-to-day and place-to-
>> > >place basis.
>>
>> > I gather that it's likely to become even more eratic.
>> >A neat study would be to look at the efficacy of weather forcasting,
>> >today compared to twenty years ago.
>>
>> There are many studies, some general and some targeted to specific
>> regions,
>> that have measured this. Here's a brief summary of one study that shows a
>> 10% accuracy improvement over 25 years:
>>
>> http://www.emc.ncep.noaa.gov/gmb/targobs/target/summaryresults.html
>>
>> Here's a brief, general description of NOAA's Targeted Observations
>> Project,
>> aimed at improving NWP (Numerical Weather Prediction):
>>
>> http://wwwt.emc.ncep.noaa.gov/gmb/targobs/index.html
>>
>> It isn't clear what connection you're looking for here, but weather
>> prediction is about achieving high accuracy in relatively short-term
>> predictions. It's not related to measuring climate changes.
>
>>Thanks for that. My thinking was that one might see increasing
>>unpreditability if CC alters the way that, say, an Atlantic depression
>>evolves nowadays, compared to the historical norm. Changes in
>>forecasting technique may have evolved faster than the depressions,
>>however ;-)
>
>Aha. That's an interesting thought. But, as you say, forecasting technology
>keeps advancing, and that makes it tough, or maybe impossible at this point,
>to measure -- at least in a thorough way.
>
>I'll bet there are some variables that can be measured that way, however,
>and for which technology hasn't changed the results: something like the
>frequency and velocity of barometric changes at given observation points.
>That would tell you how many severe lows or highs you have over time at one
>location. (It seems likely that they've already analyzed this, however, and
>it might even be a basis for the claims of increased weather variability.)
>
>A neighbor of mine is a PhD. meteorologist at NOAA's Mt. Holly, NJ station.
>I'll ask him about this when I see him.
As the poles seem to warm faster one might suspect that the rate of energy
flow to them increases and try to deduce more/faster mass flows which might
lead to more turbulant flow in some areas.
--
Cliff
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Annealing brass and other non ferrous metals
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/cc3bc555e909fa61?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:10 pm
From: Larry Jaques
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 10:36:51 -0500, the infamous Joseph Gwinn
<joegwinn@comcast.net> scrawled the following:
>In article <p5q3p51bdmkranlm36aaj09qcdndjin7og@4ax.com>,
> Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 05 Mar 2010 20:12:59 -0500, Joseph Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >In article <jVhkn.8266$rq1.4574@en-nntp-02.dc1.easynews.com>,
>> > Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Guy at work swore up and down that you have to quench non ferous metals to
>> >> get the softest
>> >> annealing.
>> >>
>> >> I've annealed case mouths on rifle cartridges standing in shallow water
>> >> and
>> >> then tipped
>> >> them over into the water just to cool them. The standing water level
>> >> kept
>> >> the case body
>> >> from being annealed. Was I missing something there? I'm thinking he is
>> >> FOS.
>> >
>> >No, he's right: You quench ferrous alloys to harden and non-ferrous alloys
>> >to anneal. Not that copper and brass are that fussy.
>> >
>> >Joe Gwinn
>>
>> So lead is a ferrous alloy?
>
>Must be ...
Either that, or it was Ferrous Beuller's Day Off.
>Can't say that I was thinking about lead and its alloys. The above rule of
>thumb covered common metals that exhibit elastic behavior over some range of
>stress and strain. Unlike lead, indium, and the like.
Indium makes hellacious tanks! (Or so Colonel Hammer says. ;)
--
The blind are not good trailblazers.
-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:20 pm
From: stans4@prolynx.com
On Mar 5, 6:08 pm, Wes <clu...@lycos.com> wrote:
> Guy at work swore up and down that you have to quench non ferous metals to get the softest
> annealing.
>
> I've annealed case mouths on rifle cartridges standing in shallow water and then tipped
> them over into the water just to cool them. The standing water level kept the case body
> from being annealed. Was I missing something there? I'm thinking he is FOS.
>
> Wes
Which nonferrous metals? Aluminum is not silver which is not brass/
copper which is not lead or its alloys. And none of those is
platinum, iridium, tungsten, cobalt or nickel. They all have their
own quirks.
Grain growth in brass has nothing to do with quenching, which is what
you're doing with brass annealing. The water just keeps things from
going too far, as you say. And solution hardening aluminum alloys are
hardened by heating, they'd age-harden eventually, but it just speeds
things up. No quenching involved. Without knowing what metal(s) he's
talking about, it's hard to say.
Stan
==============================================================================
TOPIC: More pix of this Series II
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/31636df86429c253?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:33 pm
From: Ignoramus26053
On 2010-03-06, Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
> Ignoramus26053 <ignoramus26053@NOSPAM.26053.invalid> wrote:
>
>>On 2010-03-06, Pete C. <aux3.DOH.4@snet.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Ignoramus26053 wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I reorganized them. The top level directory has pictures that I took
>>>> yesterday upon pickip. Taken By Seller directory has pictures that the
>>>> seller emailed me earlier. Other Mills has pictures of similar Series
>>>> II mills.
>>>>
>>>> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Bridgeport-Series-II-CNC/
>>>
>>> Getting it on and off the trailer wasn't too bad?
>>
>>Yes and no. On the trailer, no problem. Off the trailer, no problem
>>too, but we unloaded in my friend's warehouse with a forklift. TO get
>>it to my home, I will have to take the head with ram off of it.
>>
>>i
>
> I was wondering where it was spending the night. Glad to learn your
> friend has a fork lift. Will he let you borrow it to take home in
> the near future?
I still need to take off the head and ram assembly, as it would not
fit through the door. Without the head, I can unload myself in 2-3
hours. It is not really a big deal with the head removed.
So my plan is as follows:
1) Take off the head (which is not simple due to many wires and
air/hydraulic lines going to it).
2) Take head home, lift it and suspend from the ceiling above the
intended placement of the mill
3) Bring the mill home, put under the head, lower head on mill.
> Btw, did you get your apron "cut feed / screw feed" interlock issue resolved?
No, I fell asleep at 9:30pm yesterday, I was exhausted completely. I
do think that the issue is the position of the cam, and if I can find
the right position for the cam, the lock arm will move in the proper
interval. I may look at it today.
i
==============================================================================
TOPIC: DIY Two-Stroke Engine
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/bcf5d37475198771?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:45 pm
From: stans4@prolynx.com
On Mar 5, 6:56 pm, durabol <durabo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> For the last few years I have toyed with the idea of building a
> homemade two-stroke engine for UL use. What keyed my interest was
> reading about homemade model aircraft engines and reading and watching
> a re-enactment of the Wright brother's first flight with a replica
> engine (not a two-stroke engine).
>
> Has anyone made a 2-stroke engine from scratch? One may need to cast
> aluminium, may need a lathe and milling machine with boring head and
> hone or perhaps the boring and honing of the cylinder and bearing
> journals could be farmed out. A commercial carburetor and piston could
> be used. Two-stroke engines seem simple enough that home construction
> may be possible, if not practical.
>
> A direct drive engine will be that much heavier when you take into
> account the weight of the drive reduction system. I have calculated
> the weight of an 80x80mm bore and stroke 2 cylinder opposed engine and
> it was a bit under 40lbs which should give about 1hp/lbs. I used 10mm
> cylinder and crankcase wall thickness and a 1.25" dia crank.
>
> I have got some idea of port-time-area from the freeware computer
> program called "BiMotion". I'm not sure how good the data is for
> lowish speed engines but I guess it is a start. I have also worked up
> a spreadsheet for similar information.
>
> I don't think a reed valve system is needed for this engine since it
> is only going to operate at a fairly narrow rpm range and the port
> timing isn't critical. Piston ported valves offer similar performance
> to other induction types but only over a narrow rpm range which is
> what I have planned for the engine. I plan to build an engine with a
> restrictive exhaust to ensure no fuel escapes. I have heard that
> piston ported engines can spit some fuel out of the carb at idle but
> this doesn't seem like a major problem. Rotary valves via crank shaft
> induction (disk or drum valves as well) is an interesting idea but I
> don't think I need the critical timing they provide.
>
> I was planning on using the largest two-stroke piston (not a diesel
> piston) I could find and using the largest stoke that was reasonable,
> something like 90x105mm
>
> Brock
There's any amount of engineering info out there on two-strokes,
books have been written. They were a staple project in The Model
Engineer magazine for years, should you want to look that up. What's
UL use?
You'd be basically recreating a commodity item. Resurrect one from a
defunct snowblower, weed-whacker or Lawnboy and spend more time on
figuring out the project you want to drive. The engineering's done,
you aren't likely to improve on what's already been built. Want
overhead valves? Been done. Rotary valves, ditto. Fuel injection,
same. Separate lube system, been done. Opposed twins, flat fours,
square fours, Vs, Xs, Ws, all been done. Separate forced air pumping,
too. They basically suck thermodynamically except the one feature
they've got going is power-to-weight ratio, the small ones pump out a
lot of horsepower, usually at high RPM, for their size. For that you
can go with an existing engine and spend more time on the rest of the
project.
Stan
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:59 pm
From: Jim Wilkins
On Mar 6, 8:45 pm, sta...@prolynx.com wrote:
> On Mar 5, 6:56 pm, durabol <durabo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > For the last few years I have toyed with the idea of building a
> > homemade two-stroke engine for UL use.
> > Brock
>
> ...What's UL use?
> Stan
I think UL here means UltraLight, a minimally regulated, tiny but
MANNED aircraft.
http://www.eaa.org/Ultralights/
I looked into it, flew a hang glider a few times, then gave it up for
the safer hobby of racing dirt bikes.
jsw
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Larios Horizontal mill and shop straightening
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/2abaee7e613ad0f8?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 6 2010 5:51 pm
From: Gunner Asch
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 18:23:33 -0500, Wes <clutch@lycos.com> wrote:
>Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Yet its common as dirt, wide spread and the numbers of fatalities is
>>very very small.
>>
>>But..its still quite unwise.
>
>
>Yes, I've seen it. I still want whoever did it to live a life of flipping burgers rather
>than routing electrons.
>
>Wes
Ok.
Gunner
Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.
==============================================================================
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