twitter: rec.crafts.metalworking - 24 new messages in 13 topics

rec.crafts.metalworking
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking?hl=en

rec.crafts.metalworking@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Anyone have an External Hard drive available?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/4ad5b9a20cfca5fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:03 pm
From: "Greg O"

"tnik" <kortjester@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:u4Fun.40606$7n7.5081@en-nntp-14.dc1.easynews.com...
> On 4/6/2010 7:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>> On Apr 6, 7:16 am, "kfvorw...@gmail.com"<kfvorw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> ...
>>> My IT friend has a dongle that has multiple plugs for all types of
>>> hard drives but he got it at work and doesn't know where it came from.
>>> It was about $30.
>>> Karl
>>
>> All mine says is "Made in China". It connects PATA, SATA and laptop
>> drives to USB. It came from the second hand computer store where I
>> bought swappable IDE drive docking kits, another possibility.
>>
>> jsw
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002
>
> Thats the one I have, and its been working just fine for over 2 years. And
> at 20 bucks, you can't go wrong.
>
> One thing to remember, alot of times the front usb ports on a computer do
> not have enough 'umph' to run a hdd properly. So the best thing is to
> plug it in to the back of the computer (on the usb ports that are directly
> connected to the mobo)

Same one I have too.
Greg

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:08 pm
From: "Greg O"

<snarl@tripod.net> wrote in message
news:me0nr5l5ainorjrnj27qqjikdc35162mbd@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 06:27:39 -0500, "Snag" <snag_one@comcast.net>
> >
> I just ordered a y splitter for audio (computer to stereo) from them
> for $6.99. Shipping was $8.99 for 3 day UPS! So far I'm not
> impressed.
>
> Snarl
>

What he hell? Did you think they would ship for free? ;-)
Getting anything shipped for much less than $10 is getting pretty hard these
days! When I order something in I usually try to wait and order enough crap
to make it worth the freight.
Greg

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:30 pm
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 11:29:58 -0700, sittingduck
<duck@spamherelots.com> wrote:

>Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
>> Where do you think those front panel USB ports go?
>
>Stupid question, don't you think?
>To a long wire that connects to some pins on usb headers.
>They are typically weaker than the regular usb ports.

The USB port supplies a maximum of 500ma per port at 5 volts. The wire
is mabee a foot long - so total 2 feet of conductor. SAY it is 28
guage. Resistance is 212 ohms per KM, or 0.0054359 ohms per inch 0r
roughly 0.13 ohms for the 2 foot assembly. Voltage drop under full
load is 0.13X.500= 0.065 volts.

That's 32 milliwats of power loss.
Totally inconsequential in my books.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:32 pm
From: cavelamb <""cavelamb\"@ X earthlink.net">

On 4/6/2010 9:01 PM, Greg O wrote:
>
> "Snag" <snag_one@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:KOjun.198599$Dv7.43006@newsfe17.iad...
>> >>>
>>
>> www.newegg.com is your friend . I'm using a laptop drive in a case I
>> bought for them for under 10 bucks . They also have cases for internal
>> desktop drives , I think .
>>
>> --
>> Snag
>> I've also backed up
>> everything on multiple
>> computers .
>>
>
> Same here, I bought a drive case for ~$15 from Buy.com and slipped a
> spare 80 gig drive in it for back up. Also the wife had a Western
> Digital "Book" external drive that died. I tore it apart, and it had a
> normal HD in it. I bought a case for it too and we still use it back up
> too.
>
> One other deal I picked up off Buy.com is a do-dad that will plug into
> any HD and you can plug into the USB port and pull the info off the
> drive. That was only $15 or so too. Saved data from a couple computers
> with it already. I had a laptop that died, it would not power up and had
> some info on the drive I really wanted, plus pulled info off a drive a
> friend brought over from a crashed desktop. Well worth the bucks if you
> have a crashed computer that you want info off of!
>
> Greg

What is the name of that do-dad, Greg?
Or better yet, a link?

I have a box full of old MFM drives...

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:36 pm
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Tue, 6 Apr 2010 11:50:07 -0500, "Snag" <snag_one@comcast.net>
wrote:

>clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> On Tue, 6 Apr 2010 09:16:43 -0500, "Snag" <snag_one@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> tnik wrote:
>>>> On 4/6/2010 7:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>>>> On Apr 6, 7:16 am, "kfvorw...@gmail.com"<kfvorw...@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> ...
>>>>>> My IT friend has a dongle that has multiple plugs for all types of
>>>>>> hard drives but he got it at work and doesn't know where it came
>>>>>> from. It was about $30.
>>>>>> Karl
>>>>>
>>>>> All mine says is "Made in China". It connects PATA, SATA and laptop
>>>>> drives to USB. It came from the second hand computer store where I
>>>>> bought swappable IDE drive docking kits, another possibility.
>>>>>
>>>>> jsw
>>>>
>>>> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002
>>>>
>>>> Thats the one I have, and its been working just fine for over 2
>>>> years. And at 20 bucks, you can't go wrong.
>>>>
>>>> One thing to remember, alot of times the front usb ports on a
>>>> computer do not have enough 'umph' to run a hdd properly. So the
>>>> best thing is to plug it in to the back of the computer (on the usb
>>>> ports that are directly connected to the mobo)
>>>
>>> I have a Sabrent USB-DSC5 , similar to that . Came with a power
>>> supply to plug the drives into , so power is not an issue . Also has
>>> adapters for ANY type of removeable drive/storage unit .
>>> http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156017
>> Bet it won't run single ended SCSI, differential scsi, or even most
>> likely Serial Scsi - all of which are "standard" removeable hard
>> drives.
>
>Well , ya got me there . It will handle all types of SATA and IDE drives is
>more accurate . Had my hands on a SCSI HDD recently , didn't realize what it
>was until I did some research . I never figured out what , if any ,
>advantages there were to it . You seem to know a bit about it , care to
>enlighten me ?
SCSI (Small Computer System Interface) has a controller built into
the drive that does a lot of data processing on-board - allowing
faster data access - and particularly faster data transfer between
drives, as well as faster multiple data requests. (it is a peer to
peer data transfer protocol and can be used as well for printers,
scanners, etc)

For simple disk access SATA is getting close in speed - but in things
like servers, with multiple simultaneous data requests, SCSI is still
king (for a little while yet, anyway)

It is an evolution of the older Shugart Associates System Interface
(SASI)

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:58 pm
From: Winston_Smith

Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:

>Looking for a 250-500 Gig USB external harddrive.
>
>I need it for backups etc etc.
>
>Yes..they are available on Ebay for $50
>
>Looking to swap for one or two.
>
>Cash..is really tight.
>
>Gunner

There is a gizmo called a "toaster". It looks like a charging station
for a cell phone or PDA. It's cord goes to a USB and you shove any
SATA hard drive in the slot. At least some of them are hot swabable.

Newegg just had a one hour blow out sale this morning on the Rosewill
version and I snagged one for $18, free shipping. But it's normally
only about $25.

__
WS in a.s and m.s
Two parties, not a dimes worth of difference.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Am I a fool to buy this mill/drill?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/a1b543030985642c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:06 pm
From: "DoN. Nichols"

On 2010-04-05, Jim Wilkins <kb1dal@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Apr 5, 11:43 am, RBnDFW <burkhei...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> ...
>> >http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=630-4050&PMPXNO=950511&PARTP...
>>
>> that Enco set for $29.95 looks like a great deal. thanks!
>
> It's tricky to set up an insert vise on those thin angle blocks in a
> milling vise. Unless you can c-clamp the blocks to the fixed jaw there
> are too many loose parts to hold snugly in place as you tighten the
> jaws. The thicker ones I suggested will stay in place by gravity,
> their problem is excessive height if you have to stack the notched
> ones.

Or -- you could use a sine bar and a cheap set of Chinese gauge
blocks to set the angle of the vise, then once it is clamped firmly,
slide the gauge blocks and the sine bar out from under it. Typical sine
bars are 5", larger ones 10", but I have one 2.5" one which is nice in a
small machine vise. (Of course, you have to adjust the size of the
gauge block stack for the length of the bar.) But the sine bar is a
real winner when you need an angle which would require several angel
blocks to build up the proper angle.

Or -- you could clamp the workpiece close to the right angle
(set by a protractor or the like) and place the sine bar and the gauge
blocks on top of it in reverse and use a dial test indicator to tell
when you have the right angle (zero change when the angle is right).

> Alternatively you can clamp a guide to the fixed jaw or to a large
> slotted angle bolted to the table and use the thin angle blocks to
> adjust it to the desired angle.

Yes.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:42 pm
From: Jim Wilkins

On Apr 6, 10:06 pm, "DoN. Nichols" <dnich...@d-and-d.com> wrote:
> On 2010-04-05, Jim Wilkins <kb1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> ...
>
> Or -- you could use a sine bar and a cheap set of Chinese gauge
> blocks to set the angle of the vise, then once it is clamped firmly,
> slide the gauge blocks and the sine bar out from under it. Typical sine
> bars are 5", larger ones 10", but I have one 2.5" one which is nice in a
> small machine vise. (Of course, you have to adjust the size of the
> gauge block stack for the length of the bar.) But the sine bar is a
> real winner when you need an angle which would require several angel
> blocks to build up the proper angle.
> DoN.

The 2.5" sine bar sounds like a good idea. The shortest one I have is
3" which is also the width of the bed of the vise and it slips off too
easily.

I don't think I've ever had to mill a flat surface at an angle that
wasn't an integral number of degrees, usually a multiple of 5, so the
angle block set has been more useful than my gage blocks. I've used
them with a sine bar only to measure the angle of a conical taper.

The tooth cutter for the tractor steering sector was ground for a 20
degrees pressure angle with a correction for side clearance, but I set
that up in a 3-way-swiveling Univise.

jsw

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Zero Fog mister
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/22195531e109151f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:09 pm
From: Joseph Gwinn

In article <Xns9D52622595556lloydspmindspringcom@216.168.3.70>,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

> Joseph Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> fired this volley in news:joegwinn-
> 51CB1B.09202406042010@news.giganews.com:
>
> > What application understands a .DWG file?
>
> AutoCAD, Rhino, and there are several others.

OK.

> Besides that, you can get freeware .dwg "readers" all over. No CAD
> features, just display/print the file.

Which readers by name will do this?

Joe Gwinn

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 8:14 pm
From: Ned Simmons

On Tue, 06 Apr 2010 22:09:29 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
<joegwinn@comcast.net> wrote:

>In article <Xns9D52622595556lloydspmindspringcom@216.168.3.70>,
> "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
>
>> Joseph Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> fired this volley in news:joegwinn-
>> 51CB1B.09202406042010@news.giganews.com:
>>
>> > What application understands a .DWG file?
>>
>> AutoCAD, Rhino, and there are several others.
>
>OK.
>
>
>> Besides that, you can get freeware .dwg "readers" all over. No CAD
>> features, just display/print the file.
>
>Which readers by name will do this?

Truview is Autodesk's free viewer -- .dwg is the native autocad file
format. It allows you to view, print, and take measurements from a
drawing in .dwg or .dxf format.
http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?id=6703438&siteID=123112

--
Ned Simmons

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 8:49 pm
From: "Karl Townsend"

If you're interested. This fella just posted the unit on his web site:
http://www.machinistblog.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: On carbon vs. stainless steel in grills
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/6792301c4ff731b6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:18 pm
From: "fran...123"

"Ignoramus17356" <ignoramus17356@NOSPAM.17356.invalid> wrote in message
news:a9GdncdEzoPFQibWnZ2dnUVZ_tOdnZ2d@giganews.com...
> On 2010-04-06, Scott Lurndal <scott@slp53.sl.home> wrote:
>> Ignoramus17356 <ignoramus17356@NOSPAM.17356.invalid> writes:
>>>On 2010-04-06, Leo Lichtman <leo.lichtman@att.net> wrote:
>>>> "Ignoramus17356" wrote: Yes, Sir, indeed stainless is good stuff.
>>>> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>>>> A rose is a rose is a rose--but stainless comes in a variety of alloys.
>>>> From your experience, some are good in the barbecue, but others may not
>>>> be.
>>>
>>>It looks like my barbecue is using the particular alloy that is good
>>>in barbecues.
>>
>> A single sample cannot be considered representative.
>
> I did some reading on the subject of stainless steel in grills: it
> seems that the cheap manufacturers use low grade and essentially
> inappropriate steels that they call "stainless", but which do rust in
> grills after the return period runs out.
>
> Apparently, my grill is mostly made of proper stainless. It is not
> fully stainless, however, and there are iron screws in it that have
> rotted, as well as a few other minor pieces. This is a Sam's Club
> "Members Mark" grill.
>
> i
I made my own cooker out of a Budweiser keg. They are stainless steel and I
use charcoal and it gets wet when it rains can't say I notice any corrosion
on anything but the Weber plated steel round thing you put the food on. The
only welding related thing is attaching a rotisserie device and then
modifying the rotisserie basket to fit in the keg.

Fran

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Jon Banquer invades VX Forum
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/8c4c0e70a6085103?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:19 pm
From: spambait@milmac.com (Doug Miller)

In article <1einr5h9bg1t4q65umhtj3tantfl9k5lfr@4ax.com>, ljaques@diversify.invalid wrote:

>Absolutely. Our library was missing one and I missed a lot of
>reference by not reading it. Yes, excellent. My favorite was
>_On Basilisk Station_.

If you liked that, you'll probably like "The Excalibur Alternative" too. (Not
part of the Honor Harrington series.)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: A new "constitutional right"
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/8e77e80070fe5b42?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:20 pm
From: tankfixer

In article <843ca134-3e5e-4740-8f1b-89145f3528d4
@l37g2000vbd.googlegroups.com>, rangerssuck@gmail.com says...
>
> On Apr 5, 10:10 pm, tankfixer <paul.carr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > In article <59837bb4-c9d7-4775-8e21-
> > 5192517f6...@r18g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>, rangerss...@gmail.com
> > says...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Apr 4, 6:38 pm, tankfixer <paul.carr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > In article <a53ir5l06l8leoo6pg1kkfuk36bf0n5...@4ax.com>,
> > > > Clhuprichguessw...@aoltmovetheperiodc.om says...
> >
> > > > > On Sun, 4 Apr 2010 11:22:01 -0700, tankfixer <paul.carr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > > > >> >> What unconstitutional law might that be?
> >
> > > > > >> >The McCann-Fiengold monstosity, but you knew that.
> >
> > > > > >>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bipartisan_Campaign_Reform_Act
> > > > > >> "But, in December 2003, the Supreme Court upheld most of the legislation in
> > > > > >> McConnell v. FEC."
> > > > > >> [
> > > > > >> President Barack Obama expressed his concern over the Supreme Court's decision
> > > > > >> during his State of the Union speech, delivered January 27th, saying, "With all
> > > > > >> due deference to separation of powers, last week the Supreme Court reversed a
> > > > > >> century of law that I believe will open the floodgates for special interests ?-
> > > > > >> including foreign corporations ?- to spend without limit in our elections. I
> > > > > >> don't think American elections should be bankrolled by America's most powerful
> > > > > >> interests, or worse, by foreign entities. They should be decided by the American
> > > > > >> people. And I'd urge Democrats and Republicans to pass a bill that helps to
> > > > > >> correct some of these problems." President Obama also called the decision, "?a
> > > > > >> major victory for big oil, Wall Street banks, health insurance companies and the
> > > > > >> other powerful interests that marshal their power every day in Washington to
> > > > > >> drown out the voices of everyday Americans.?
> > > > > >> ]
> >
> > > > > >> Hence it was indeed constitutional and you had something else in mind
> > > > > >> or are just willingly ignorant, as usual.
> >
> > > > > >Barack Obama only proved he isn't such a great constitutional scholar...
> >
> > > > > You've never even read the thing, eh?
> >
> > > > The constitution ?
> > > > Sure, you might try it..
> > > > reminds me to send copies to my senators and congressman.. maybe to the
> > > > president too since they seem to have not consulted it recently
> >
> > > > > Too many (and too big) words?
> >
> > > > Not many words at all..
> > > > I'm sure your mom can read it to you..
> >
> > > Please state, for the record, precisely which parts of the
> > > Constitution your Senators, Congressman and President have violated.
> >
> > > This ought to be fun.
> >
> > Article 1, Section 8 along with the 10th ammendment.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Would you care to expand on that and share your fantasy with the rest
> of us?

It's a short section. go read it yourself.
You CAN read, right ?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:23 pm
From: tankfixer

In article <hpej47$qt2$1@speranza.aioe.org>,
davesmithers@digitalpath.net says...
>
> >>> Not me, I am a little old.
> >>
> >> Didn't you hear about some of the old farts that military was taking
> >> into the service during the Iraq war? I saw some folks that were in
> >> their seventies. Old people have always participated in wars.
> >
> > Mostly voluntarily. I seriously doubt many of them were conscripted.
>
> This was back when the Iraq war was young so it was a number of years
> ago. But I recall seeing some really old people being recalled for
> service. The point is still valid though. If the government needs you it
> can and will conscript you.
>

Those were prior service retirees who got recalled due to possessing a
skill in short supply in both the active and reserves.

No one has been consripted since 1973

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Question: Metal Bending
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/e469d5ae68d2de28?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:23 pm
From: "DoN. Nichols"

On 2010-04-06, Searcher7 <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
> On Apr 3, 10:43 pm, "DoN. Nichols" <dnich...@d-and-d.com> wrote:

[ ... ]

>> I don't think that a finger (or pan) brake would be very easy to
>> produce a U with 1/4" sides -- depending on just how *wide* it is. If
>> it is say an inch wide -- fine. When I hear 'U', I think of something
>> not as wide as it is tall (like the letter 'U' on my screen. :-)
>>
>> If it is as wide as the side height (1/4") then that would not
>> work well at all -- unless he makes custom fingers for the brake.
>>
>> > Newer models are in the press brake form, and have
>> > even more clearance than most finger brakes. But,
>> > these often can't go past 90 degrees with the
>> > standard die sets.
>>
>> Again -- custom die set for the 'U'. Perhaps with a guide
>> included for the width of the stock prior to bending, so it remains
>> centered as the punch enters the die.

[ ... ]

> Thanks everyone.
>
> Ok, 14 gauge is out. :-)
>
> But I definitely need to bend 16 gauge, which I assume is a tiny bit
> under 1/16th of an inch.(But correct me if I'm wrong).

It is close enough to 1/16" so you can use that as a guide.

> Even if I have to use a torch to heat the metal up first, I don't
> think that would be a problem.

That will be difficult given how much steel will be clamped to
the metal right where the bend goes. It will take you hours to heat it,
and you will be reducing the hardness of the fingers and other contact
points.

If you are starting with mild steel, you probably won't need to
do the heating -- unless you work-harden it by the first bend.

> Depending on the size of the brake I have the option of storing it in
> the basement, so I don't think that weight would itself would be an
> issue.

O.K. As a couple of points of reference:

Brake Stand
Shipping Shipping
weight Weight
==================================================
24" 325 100
36" 470 140

So -- do you plan to use it in the basement? You certainly
don't plan to haul it upstairs use it and then haul it back down. You
are still in the apartment building?

And in the basement, you want to be sure to coat it with a good
oil or rust preventive (certainly not WD-40. :-)

> The 24-3/8" length comes from a piece I have to duplicate. At least a
> few times.

And the limit for my Di-Acro is precisely 24".

> As for the "U", each of the three walls will need to be the same 1/4".

Hmm ... from the manual for the #24 and #36 Brakes:

======================================================================
NOTE: Di-Acro Brakes are rated for 1" minimum flange when
bending full capacity. Caution should be used if necessary to
bend heavier gauge material in short widths.
======================================================================

And 16 gauge is the full capacity - especially at a full 24"
long. So a press brake with a custom punch and die would probably be
better for you.

> If anyone knows of any links that deal with specific equipment that
> may meet my needs or even a site with building instructions I'd
> appreciate it.

Here is the Di-Acro page dealing with the brakes (24" and 36"
ones). They used to have their manuals available for download in pdf
format. I think some others have the files still available.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Future Space programs Re: Anniversary of an amazingly enduring design
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/57c9c3facffdfb67?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:35 pm
From: cavelamb <""cavelamb\"@ X earthlink.net">

On 4/6/2010 8:52 PM, John R. Carroll wrote:
> cavelamb"<""cavelamb\"@ X earthlink.net wrote:
>> On 4/6/2010 4:58 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
>>
>>>>> Should we go back?
>>>>>
>>
>> I'm all for everything you said, pytor.
>>
>> All I'm trying to point out is that the 1970's technology
>> that took us to the moon - has been lost.
>
> Not just yet it hasn't.
>
>> We don't _have_ that capability any more.
>
> Sure we do, or we could build it.
>

No, John, respectfully, it's gone.

The tooling to build Saturn Vs was broken up decades ago.
The people who could do it - gone to ground, retired, or long dead.
ALL of that will have to be re-invented.

And - if you can't lift to the moon (which is where I came in),
how the hell do you lift to Mars???

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:59 pm
From: Eregon

cavelamb <""cavelamb\"@ X earthlink.net"> wrote in
news:rLSdnY5C_rAJcibWnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@earthlink.com:

> On 4/6/2010 8:52 PM, John R. Carroll wrote:
>> cavelamb"<""cavelamb\"@ X earthlink.net wrote:
>>> On 4/6/2010 4:58 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> Should we go back?
>>>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm all for everything you said, pytor.
>>>
>>> All I'm trying to point out is that the 1970's technology
>>> that took us to the moon - has been lost.
>>
>> Not just yet it hasn't.
>>
>>> We don't _have_ that capability any more.
>>
>> Sure we do, or we could build it.
>>
>
> No, John, respectfully, it's gone.
>
> The tooling to build Saturn Vs was broken up decades ago.
> The people who could do it - gone to ground, retired, or long dead.
> ALL of that will have to be re-invented.
>

In far too many cases even the Companies involved are gone, too! :(

> And - if you can't lift to the moon (which is where I came in),
> how the hell do you lift to Mars???
>
>
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap wholesale FRED goggle
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/0de24e8310d7372f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:39 pm
From: shoestrade

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: labelling plastic parts bins
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/fd33d95a349efe81?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:45 pm
From: "Stu Fields"

Well I've tried some of the suggestions to be able to glue some computer
generated labels on some plastic parts bins. I sanded the plastic
carefully, cleaned it with acetone and applied an Avery sticky label.
No joy. Label nearly falls off. Seems kinda crazy that Global sells these
things with a surface obviously designed for some label and then can't tell
you what adhesive or label to use.

Still trying some of the other suggestions.

Dang....

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:49 pm
From: Joseph Gwinn

In article <M6udnd9yDr95bCbWnZ2dnUVZ_tGdnZ2d@linkline.com>,
"Stu Fields" <eh@iwvisp.com> wrote:

> Well I've tried some of the suggestions to be able to glue some computer
> generated labels on some plastic parts bins. I sanded the plastic
> carefully, cleaned it with acetone and applied an Avery sticky label.
> No joy. Label nearly falls off. Seems kinda crazy that Global sells these
> things with a surface obviously designed for some label and then can't tell
> you what adhesive or label to use.
>
> Still trying some of the other suggestions.

Get something intended to stick to polyethylene. Nothing else will work. I
have such labels, bought from a scientific supply house. These labels have not
fallen off of anything yet.

Joe Gwinn

==============================================================================
TOPIC: A slo-mo crash, with little drama and no damage
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/edb3bbf007e44b25?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 7:47 pm
From: Joseph Gwinn

I was making an arbor for a Norton aluminum-oxide 4" cup grinding wheel from
mild steel using the Clausing 5914 Lathe, and had a minor misadventure.

The stock is a 2.5" diameter 12L14 alloy bar held in the 3-jaw chuck. The part
I was working on is 1.000" diameter by 2" long, sticking out to the right where
the 2.5" diameter bar has been turned down. There must have been two pounds of
chips in the pan by then.

Anyway, I'm making a near final pass under relatively slow power feed using a
BXA-16N toolholder, and the flat full face of the carbide insert comes up
against the machined end face of the bar. Instead of machining the face a
little flatter, the whole BXA tool post rotates on the compound, causing the bit
on the BXA-16N to dig a bit deeper. There were no groans or loud noises, but
still this is not a good idea.

Anyway, I realized what was going on, and managed to stop the show before
anything bad happened, leaving only an undercut as evidence.

Another lesson on the way to becoming a machinist.

Joe Gwinn

==============================================================================
TOPIC: You write the caption 04-06-10
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/20e4da5ea9c437eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 8:33 pm
From: "Chief Egalitarian"

http://tinyurl.com/yzwfgzj

==============================================================================
TOPIC: metal working porn
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.metalworking/t/8b5bd55d05e25ae2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 6 2010 8:36 pm
From: jk

For those here actually interested in metal working

Hot raising the skull and back of an armet from one sheet
jk

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Tuesday, April 6, 2010

rec.crafts.metalworking - 24 new messages in 13 topics - digest

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